It may appear that wine in Australia has always been defined by variety. The truth of Australia's wine history, though, tells another story.

This project has its origins, as well as its heart, in the Grampians wine region. This isn't a function of random choice. The Grampians, as has been deeply documented, is one of the oldest wine regions in Australia. As such, it bears some responsibility for imprinting the history of wine in this country.

Although rightly famous for Shiraz today, some of the greatest wines produced in the Grampians were made back when the way we made and thought about wine were quite different from today.

Indeed, some of the most legendary wines that emerged from this tiny part of Western Victoria from its inception through to the early 60s were of an unlabelled varietal mix, often a blend of noble and rather notoriously plebian grape varieties. Variety, so much imbued with connotations of quality today, disappeared into these superb wines as they were vinified and blended to achieve a level of quality and style worthy of their regions and makers.

Region and maker. Environment's hand, in tandem with that of people. The blend might change year to year, and may never be repeated, but the master winemakers who shaped our vinous legacy knew how they could work with their region's fruit to achieve wines of distinction and class.

We love this.

This is the One Wine Project. One wine at a time, in homage to a truly Australian tradition of winemaking.